SPEYERS the netherlands (2025)
A Mary Jane is a shoe defined by a strap across the instep – in this case, two. In mass production, these straps are always added separately for reasons of efficiency. But for these handcrafted, tailor-made shoes, the idea arose to make the strap an integral part of the shoe itself.
That brought a new challenge. A shoe is cut from a flat piece of leather, and incorporating the strap into the pattern is, in principle, impossible. The pattern has the shape of a broad horseshoe, while the strap cuts straight across it.
And that is exactly what was done here. The strap was cut directly from the leather of the shoe, leaving narrow channels behind. These recesses were then filled with black, high-gloss leather, creating two subtle, sporty decorative stripes precisely where the material for the straps had been removed.
The filled stripe is repeated in the only other place where a functional seam breaks through the pattern: along the centre line at the back of the heel. The heel itself is clean and upright in its shape, mirroring the straight lines of the toe at the front.
The result is an elegant women’s shoe that combines the refinement of a dress shoe with a subtle, modern sporty striping. It carries a pleasant retro character – a touch of the 1920s, a hint of sportiness, and a whisper of classic elegance.